An Adventurous Route to the Corn Islands

Getting to a place can truly be part of the adventure. And when the place is the Corn Islands, some 50 miles northeast of Bluefields on Nicaragua’s Atlantic coast, it’s a double win for the traveler seeking an off-the-beaten-path mode of transportation and vacation destination.

Visiting Corn Island is like visiting another country. While Spanish is the primary language on the mainland of Nicaragua, rapid-fire, Caribbean-infused English is the language of choice on the Corn Islands. Big Corn Island is somewhat of a misnomer, as it is approximately four square miles in size. But compared to its one-square-mile counterpart, Little Corn Island, Big Corn is a monster. The white sand beaches and alluring crystal Caribbean seas characteristic of the Corn Islands are ideal for swimming, snorkeling, fishing, scuba diving and simply gazing.
Meandering down the Escondido River. Photo by Paolo Ferraro

While one can fly to Corn Island from Managua via regularly scheduled daily flights, we recently decided to take the overland drive from San Juan del Sur to Rama and then board the Captain D., which carried us from Rama to Bluefields, where more passengers boarded, and then on to Big Corn Island. During this mini getaway, we also took a panga ride for a day trip to Little Corn Island. What our trip lacked in speediness it certainly made up for in beauty and tranquility. Here’s our ship’s log:

Winding our way down the Escondido River on the bow of the 135-foot former buoy tender Captain D., we look to the sky, naming the constellations as they appear when night falls. Later,, men on shore use an intricate system of signaling with flashlights to guide the vessel through the curving river. There are only a handful of other passengers on this leg of the journey. With the sun behind the horizon, the temperature drops and we don warmer clothes – socks, hats, sweatshirts.

Hours later, our lungs full of fresh, cool air, we pile thin plastic-covered cushions together in the dorm-style bunks, load most of our clothes and some more cushions on top of us to stay warm, and drift off to sleep to the rhythmic sound of the water slapping the hull. We awake throughout the night to adjust our backpacks, which are in the bunk with us, or to try to find another way to get warm.

[Our route: We drove to El Rama (a six-hour ride from San Juan del Sur) and then boarded the Captain D. The boat took us down the picturesque Rio Escondido to Bluefields, where we stayed overnight before heading to Big Corn Island.]
The Captain D. has a small galley and pre-made snacks are available, as is coffee, beer, soda and water. There is a microwave if you want to bring along some of your favorite snacks. Bathrooms are available for use for passengers. They are very rustic and serve many people.

We arrive at Bluefields at 11 p.m. We acknowledge the arrival into this port only briefly before nodding off to sleep again. We awake before daybreak to a very different Bluefields, one we now think we imagined last night. Since this port is the hub from which goods are shipped to Little and Big Corn Islands, it is chock full of men and women involved in an intricate dance of loading and unloading vehicles and boats with products. Sugar, water jugs, rojita, cereal, paper goods, and a variety of other necessary provisions cover the dock area. Nearby, seemingly oblivious to the cacophony of commerce, lone fishermen in hewn, paint-worn canoes, toss their nets to try to catch the day’s meals.

We depart Bluefields at 10:30 a.m. and head into the gently rolling waves of the Atlantic. It is a bright, sunny day and the vessel is full of tourists and those that either live on the islands or are stopping by for a visit. Physical space is a commodity, so passengers reserve a spot for themselves and their traveling partners – there are many families with small children on this day - by laying their groceries and belongings on a bunk or bench seat. Many have come prepared. Chicken lunches in Styrofoam containers, empanadas peddled by portside vendors, and homemade meals are in abundance. Many passengers have brought along cloths to sweep the rice off the cushions after mealtime. Diversions on the six-hour ride are plentiful. There’s a television on board, some take the opportunity to nap, and others chat, read, wander through the boat or simply enjoy the view.
A Litte Bit About the Corn Islands
For a little history about the Corn Islands: The British dominated the islands for centuries. The islands served as a refuge for British, Dutch and French pirates seeking to escape the Spanish fleet. There are likely many ships that are buried beneath the sea as they traveled between Europe and the islands. In 1894, Nicaragua declared the area’s sovereignty.

According to one web site, “Most of Nicaragua’s Caribbean coast is inhabited by Miskito Indians, descendants of the Caribs who were driven from the Pacific coast by the ancient Nahuas of Pipiles Indians. The Caribs spread out through the dense rain forests which cover much of Nicaragua’s Caribbean coastal area, settling along the large rivers which run through the area. Some still reside on the Corn Islands to this day. Most of the population of Corn Island is either black or a mixture of black and Miskito Indian. However, the British influence still exists in the language and the type of housing seen on the island.”

The abolition of slavery, which occurred in 1841, is still celebrated during a three-day long party in August.

Big and Little Corn Island

We arrive at Big Corn Island at 4:30 p.m. and take a taxi, several of which are waiting at the dock, to the South End Sunrise Hotel and Sabor Restaurant. This hotel is located across the street from the beach on the southeast end of the island, minutes from the airport. The owners of the hotel, Lonmar and Rowena Kadler, we’re told upon our arrival, are in Managua. We check into our room, which is very clean, has two large beds, air conditioning, television, and homey touches. Our first night here, we go to the restaurant at the hotel, where you can either eat inside or outside on a large covered patio with an ocean view. The early evening air is refreshing, so we stay outside. The main courses range in price from about United States (U.S.)$.9.00 for grilled steak to $11.25 for grilled lobster. Main dinner courses come with a choice of two side dishes. The breakfast menu ranges in price from about $1.00 for cereal to $3.50 for an omelet or two eggs with sausage and bacon. Luncheon specials are about $4.00 to $5.00 and include fried chicken, fried shrimp tajadas, and fish fingers.

After breakfast the following morning, we decide to trek across the island. The path may be picked up behind the South End Sunrise Hotel. It’s a bit thin at the beginning and has a moderate incline; be sure to bring water because when you’re out of the shade it gets steamy. The exercise feels great after having been mostly immobile for the trip over. And the view, literally at the top at Mt. Pleasant (there’s a big tower you can climb to get a 360-degree panoramic view of the island) is stunning. We wind our way to the other side of the island and come out near the island’s solo internet café.

Later, we head to the Picnic Center, located on the southwestern portion of the island. There are several restaurants with beach chairs here, as well as accommodations. The water is clear and turquoise, a travel brochure in the making. The music piped out from one of the restaurants is reggae. We set ourselves up under the protection of a palapa-covered roof and alternately have a few cold drinks, lunch, and swim. The water temperature is mild, the water glasslike. The restaurant offers appetizers such as fish ceviche (C$85), fish fingers ($C100) and shrimp cocktail ($C140). You can get a hamburger ($C85) or a ham and cheese sandwich ($C85), served with french fries or plantains. Main courses include lobster served one of three ways – grilled, in a cream sauce, or Caribbean – which range in price from C$200 to 225, as well as a variety of shrimp, chicken and fish dishes between $C100 and $C145, and filet mignon for C$185.

We eat dinner at one of the several restaurants recommended to us – Myers & Marvin’s Sunset Veranda Bar & Restaurant - located near the municipal wharf. Their island cuisine is reasonably priced and the staff attentive.

The following day we head to the municipal wharf to find a panga to take us to Little Corn Island. Before boarding we take the advice of one of the natives and go to the market across the street from the wharf to buy a giant red plastic bag which will protect our possessions if the ride turns wet. It is a good investment. We slip on our lifejackets, try to find the calmest place to sit with the least statistical probability of getting drenched and start out for a half hour bumpy panga ride. One of the passengers whispers tiburon, or shark, and all eyes look to starboard. Regardless of the veracity of the sighting, people seem a bit anxious to hit terra firma on Little Corn Island. Although a scant seven miles separates Big and Little Corn Islands, the half hour panga ride could shift your internal organs, depending on the weather conditions.

There are no cars on Little Corn Island, just walking paths. We decide to head to the left when we disembark. Someone recommends that we stop at Habana Libre – Twila’s. We try unsuccessfully to find it and are later were told we had walked by it.. We are sorry to find out that it is closed when we arrive because they specialize in Cuban food, with the specialty of the house being slow-roasted Cuban pork, which you must order in advance. By now some local schoolchildren have befriended us and we start to walk the other way on the path with them. They chatter and offer us tips and information.

We come upon the sign for Casa Iguana and wander through the lush, shaded path to the property. We see pineapples and other vegetation along the way. Casa Iguana consists of eight acres with stunning views on the southeastern shore of the island. There are 13 private, individual cabins located right on the beach.

When we see staff members we ask if we can visit the lodge at Casa Iguana; since we are not guests, we feel it’s the correct thing to do. We are greeted warmly and told that we are welcome to visit the lodge. Situated on a high cliff, the lodge is homey and the staff attentive. We have some cold drinks and enjoy watching the scuba divers practicing below. Some of the finest snorkeling reefs in the Caribbean may be found here. Fishing and diving are also reputed to be marvelous. Too soon, it is time to leave to catch the boat back. The ride back to Big Corn Island is much smoother. We are thankful.

We head to another restaurant recommended by Big Corn natives, the Nautilus Restaurante, which specializes in Caribbean dishes such as curries and coconut bread. They also offer vegetarian dishes and pizza. Nautilus is more than a restaurant, though. They showcase ecological products from local artists; provide live music; and offer reflexology, Hawaiian massage, book exchange, cottage rentals, and a host of other services. In addition, there is Nautilus Water Sports which can help with the exercise after the meals. Scuba diving on Big and Little Corn islands, snorkeling, fishing, and a glass bottom boat headline Nautilus Water Sports’ menu.

We enjoy a variety of dishes here, including the to-die-for curry and the sesame crusted shrimp. We are so pleased with the food that we return for more the next evening, our final, when we are additionally treated to live music. As visitors and long- and short-term residents enter, many carry their instruments, pull up a stool, and join in. It is musical and magical and a fine finale to our Corn Island adventure.

How We Did It: We had some business appointments in Managua, so we took the 7 a.m. bus from San Juan del Sur to Managua, where we arrived shortly after 9 a.m. After our appointments, we took a bus to Juigalpa to visit friends. The following day, we drove to Rama, a lovely two-hour ride on a perfectly maintained road (save for the car-devouring pothole that was on a bridge near mile marker 201). On our return trip, we drove directly from Rama to San Juan del Sur. The trip lasted six hours and included brief pit stops for snacks and beverages.

Once in Rama, we had some difficulty determining where to park our truck that was both allowed and safe; several different people working at the port had differing opinions. We boarded the Captain D. at about 5 p.m. and departed for Bluefields at approximately 5:30 p.m. It’s best to check in with Captain D.’s proprietor, Norman Downs, prior to making any arrangements as the schedule may vary. We arrived in Bluefields at 11 p.m. and spent the night on the boat there. The cost of the Captain D. was $C300 each way per person from El Rama to Big Corn Island.

We departed Bluefields at 10:30 a.m. the following and had another smooth ride to Big Corn Island, where we arrived at 4:30. This leg of the journey is very busy, as the Captain D. serves as a ferry between Bluefields and Big Corn Island. We took a cab to the South End Sunrise Hotel. There is a standard fare of 15 cordobas per person to any locations on the island; the fare is 20 cordobas per person at night.

How We Would Do It Next Time:

• Bring a sleeping bag or blanket or war m clothes (Do you see the recurring theme here? It’s chilly!) if you plan to sleep outside. You may want to bring a pillow, too. We really enjoyed sleeping in the fresh air, but if you wish to sleep indoors, berths with bunks are also available.

• Bring a cloth to clean up your plastic cushion. People eat and carry things like potted plants on the Captain D., so the cushions may get dirty.

• Bring hand sanitizer (which is one of the staples in my backpack) and facecloths. It will help you freshen up if you stay overnight.

• If you have any special snacks or drinks that you like, you may want to bring them with you as they may not be available in the islands. A few of the restaurants, for instance, did not have red wine. We were able to purchase it, however, in the supermarket on Big Corn Island.

• Playing cards, books, fishing nets…these are all great to bring along in case you feel like doing something other than enjoying the tranquility and peaceful beauty of the trip. We actually took watercolors to the Picnic Center and had a little non-competitive contest. There were no winners, but we sure had fun trying!

For more information about the South End Sunrise Hotel, visit their web site at www.southendsunrise.com.

For more information about the Captain D., you may call any of the following offices:
Bluefields at 822-1467, Corn Island - 850-2767, Leon – 882-7702, Rama - 624-756, United States – 305-251-7499

For more information about Nautilus Rental Cottage, Restaurant and Dive Shop, please visit their web site at www.divebigcorn.com

For more information about Casa Iguana, please visit their web site at www.casaiguana.net. (By the way, for a very clever list of 10 reasons you might not want to visit Casa Iguana, visit http://www.casaiguana.net/reasons.html

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